Bonsai Care – Your Beginner Guide

Everything about the art of miniature trees: from a 1,300-year history to proper care and growing from seed.

The History of Bonsai – 1,300 Years of Miniature Art

Bonsai didn't begin in Japan but in China: as early as 706 AD, a mural in Crown Prince Zhang Huai's tomb depicts miniature landscapes in trays – the art was called Penjing (盆景, "landscape in a tray"). Chinese monks and scholars cultivated small trees as meditation and an expression of cosmic harmony.

Japan adopted the art in the 12th century via Buddhist monks and shaped it into the Bonsai (盆栽, "planting in a tray") we know today. While Penjing recreates entire landscapes, Bonsai focuses on the individual tree – perfected in form, proportion and expression of age.

Bonsai arrived in the West only after World War II: American soldiers brought little trees home from Japan, and the 1970 World Exposition in Osaka triggered a global bonsai boom. Today there are over 5 million active bonsai hobbyists worldwide, more than 100 bonsai clubs in Europe alone, and masterpiece prices reach six figures.

What Actually Is Bonsai?

A common misconception: bonsai is not a species but a technique. Any tree can become a bonsai – maple, pine, juniper, even an apple tree. The principle: through targeted pruning of roots and shoots, wiring of branches, and cultivation in a shallow tray, a normal tree is kept in miniature – no genetic modification, no dwarfism.

And no: bonsai is not cruel. A well-cared-for bonsai often lives longer than its wild counterparts because it's protected from storms, pests and drought. The oldest bonsai are over 1,000 years old. The technique is no different from pruning a fruit tree in your garden – just with more attention to detail.

6 Bonsai Species for Beginners

1. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

The classic for beginners: spectacular autumn colour in red, orange and gold. Deciduous, hardy, forgives pruning mistakes. Outdoor! Needs winter cold for dormancy. Ideal in Switzerland – handles -15 °C with ease.

2. Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii)

The queen of Japanese bonsai: striking bark, elegant needle pads, classic silhouette. Needs full sun and good drainage. Outdoor! Fully hardy, but prefers shelter from icy wind.

3. Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)

A living fossil: the species has existed for 270 million years – older than the dinosaurs. Fan-shaped leaves with golden autumn colour. Extremely robust, virtually pest-free, very forgiving. Outdoor! Hardy to -25 °C.

4. Chinese Juniper (Juniperus chinensis)

Evergreen, easy to care for and spectacularly shapeable. Junipers are the most widespread bonsai species worldwide. They tolerate wiring extremely well and develop deadwood (Jin/Shari) over time, which is highly prized. Outdoor – ALWAYS! Junipers die indoors, even on a windowsill. They need cold, wind and UV light.

5. Trident Maple (Acer buergerianum)

Smaller leaves than Japanese Maple, giving better proportions at small sizes. Hardy, fast-growing, good autumn colour. Ideal for bonsai styles like Broom (Hokidachi). Outdoor!

6. Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)

The compromise: can stand outdoors in mild climates but also survives indoors with sufficient light. Tiny leaves, elegant branching, quick to shape. In Switzerland: outdoors in summer, in a cool bright room (5–10 °C) in winter. The only "indoor" candidate on this list – and even it prefers outdoors.

Growing Bonsai from Seed – Misho

Growing bonsai from seed is called Misho (実生) in Japanese – the most patient but also most rewarding way to practise bonsai. You control the tree from the very first second and shape it according to your vision.

Stratification – The Key to Germination

Many tree seeds (maple, pine, ginkgo) don't simply germinate – they need an artificial winter. This is called stratification: seeds are wrapped moist in a cloth or vermiculite and stored at 2–5 °C in the fridge for 4–12 weeks. This simulates winter and breaks dormancy.

Without stratification, many species do nothing at all. Seeds sit in the soil and rot without ever germinating. Patience here isn't optional – it's mandatory.

Realistic Expectations: Your Bonsai Timeline

• Year 1: Germination → seedling 5–15 cm. Looks like... a blade of grass with leaves. No bonsai look.
• Year 2–3: Trunk thickens, first branching. Can be moved to a training pot.
• Year 3–5: First shaping cuts possible. Starts to look like a small tree.
• Year 5–10: Clear bonsai form, bark develops, wiring and shaping in full swing.
• Year 10–15: Mature bonsai with character. The reward for 15 years of patience and care.

Yes, it's slow. But that's the whole point: bonsai is meditation, not a sprint. If you want to start faster, buy a nursery plant (3–5 years old) and begin shaping immediately.

Watering – The #1 Cause of Death

Over 70% of all bonsai deaths are caused by incorrect watering – and usually it's too much, not too little. Roots in the shallow tray need air; if they sit in water permanently, they rot.

The Finger Test

Forget fixed watering schedules ("every other day"). Instead: push your finger 1–2 cm into the soil. Still moist? Don't water. Dry? Water until it flows out of the drainage holes. It's that simple.

Watering Rules

• Water in the morning – the tree has all day to absorb
• Water thoroughly – until water runs from the holes, not just wetting the surface
• No saucer with standing water – drainage must flow freely
• Rainwater or stale tap water – many bonsai don't like lime
• In summer possibly 2× daily in heat and wind (shallow tray dries fast)
• Much less in winter – the tree is dormant and needs little water

Pruning & Wiring

Pruning and wiring are the two main tools of bonsai design:

Maintenance Pruning

Regularly trim new shoots to maintain form. For deciduous trees, shorten shoots to 2–3 leaf pairs; for conifers, pinch the "candles" (new growth). Always use sharp bonsai scissors – crushing cuts invite fungus.

Structural Pruning

Remove larger branches to establish the basic structure. Best in late winter for deciduous trees (before budding) or autumn for conifers. Seal wounds with cut paste.

Wiring

Aluminium or copper wire is spiralled around branches to bend them into the desired position. The wire stays for 3–6 months until the branch has "learned" its shape. Caution: remove wire in time before it grows into the bark – that leaves permanent scars.

Repotting & Soil

Bonsai are repotted every 2–3 years (young trees more often, old trees less). The best time is just before bud break in spring – when the tree has maximum regeneration power.

The Perfect Bonsai Substrate

Regular potting soil is a no-go – it compacts and retains too much water. The standard bonsai substrate:

• Akadama (Japanese fired clay) – retains moisture, releases it slowly
• Pumice – provides drainage and aeration
• Lava granules – structural stability and minerals

Standard mix: 1/3 Akadama + 1/3 Pumice + 1/3 Lava. For pines: more pumice (drier). For deciduous: more Akadama (moister). All components 2–4 mm grain size.

Repotting Step by Step

1. Remove tree from pot, carefully comb old substrate from roots
2. Shorten roots by maximum 1/3 (never more!), remove damaged ones
3. Fill fresh substrate into pot, position tree, secure with wire
4. Water thoroughly, place in partial shade for 2 weeks (root recovery)

Bonsai in Switzerland – Native Species & Winter Protection

Switzerland is an excellent bonsai country – the four seasons and cold winters are exactly what most bonsai species need. Particularly exciting: native species perfectly adapted to our climate.

Native Swiss Bonsai Species

• Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) – Europe's most widespread pine. Fantastic reddish-brown bark, elegantly short needles. Collecting from nature (Yamadori) possible with a permit.
• Mountain Pine (Pinus mugo) – Naturally compact, grows in the Alps at 2,500 m. Perfect for small bonsai, extremely hardy.
• Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) – Native, evergreen, develops spectacular deadwood. Found in the Pre-Alps and Jura.
• European Larch (Larix decidua) – The only conifer that drops its needles. Golden autumn colour, fresh green growth in spring. Very popular with bonsai artists.
• European Beech (Fagus sylvatica) – Elegant smooth bark, small leaves, copper autumn colour. Retains dry foliage in winter – a unique sight.

Winter Protection in Switzerland

Outdoor bonsai need cold – but the shallow pot doesn't protect roots as well as the ground. Below -5 °C, root protection is needed:

• Place pot in a styrofoam box (with lid, holes for air and water) – the simplest and most effective method
• Bury in the garden – sink pot to rim level, cover with leaves
• Unheated greenhouse or garage with window (0–5 °C)
• NEVER bring into the warm living room! Outdoor bonsai need the cold for dormancy. Without it, they exhaust themselves and die in spring.

Common Problems & Solutions

• Yellow leaves → Overwatering (most common cause) or nutrient deficiency. Do the finger test, fertilise if needed.
• Leaf drop in summer → Stress: too hot, too dry, location change. Partial shade, water regularly.
• Brown needle tips → Too dry or too much fertiliser. Water more, reduce feeding.
• Mould on soil → Too wet, too little air circulation. Loosen surface substrate, water less.
• Aphids / spider mites → Spray off with water; for heavy infestation, neem oil or insecticidal soap.
• Root rot → Repot immediately, remove rotten roots, place in dry substrate. Water less!

Bonsai Styles – The 5 Basic Forms

• Chokkan (Formal upright) – Straight trunk, pyramidal form. Like a spruce in the forest.
• Moyogi (Informal upright) – Curved trunk, most natural style. Like a tree at the field's edge.
• Shakan (Slanting) – Trunk at an angle, as if shaped by wind.
• Kengai (Cascade) – Trunk grows downward over the pot's edge. Like a tree on a cliff.
• Hokidachi (Broom) – Round, broom-shaped crown. Typical for deciduous trees like Zelkova or Maple.

10 Fun Facts About Bonsai

1. The oldest known bonsai is a Ficus in the Crespi Bonsai Museum in Italy – over 1,000 years old.
2. A bonsai from Hiroshima survived the atomic bomb on 6 August 1945. It now stands in the National Bonsai Museum in Washington D.C.
3. The most expensive bonsai ever sold is a centuries-old juniper – price: over 2 million US dollars.
4. In 2014, a Japanese cherry blossom seed germinated on the ISS – the "space bonsai" now grows in a temple in Gifu, Japan.
5. The word "bonsai" literally means "planting in a tray" (盆 = tray, 栽 = planting).
6. In Japan there is Omiya Bonsai Village – an entire village consisting only of bonsai nurseries (since 1925).
7. Ginkgo biloba has existed for 270 million years – cultivated as bonsai, it even outlives the dinosaurs in miniature.
8. Bonsai masters in Japan recognise their trees by the sound of the water: when the soil is properly watered, the water sounds different as it flows through.
9. The Japanese Emperor owns a bonsai collection in the Imperial Palace in Tokyo – some specimens are over 500 years old.
10. The Karate Kid "Wax on, wax off" was inspired by Mr. Miyagi's bonsai scene – the film made bonsai world-famous in the 1980s.

Our Bonsai Products

Ready for your own bonsai adventure? Here's everything to get started:

• Bonsai Kit Red Maple (CHF 19.95) – Seeds, soil, instructions, pot. Everything for your first maple bonsai.
• Bonsai Kit Stone Pine (CHF 19.95) – Italian stone pine, Mediterranean flair on your windowsill.
• Bonsai Kit Ginkgo (CHF 19.95) – The 270-million-year fossil to grow yourself.
• Bonsai Pine Seeds (CHF 5.95) – Seed pack for experienced growers who already have substrate and pot.
• Seed Set Red Maple (CHF 5.95) – Maple seeds for classic autumn colour.
• Ginkgo Biloba Seeds (CHF 5.95) – The oldest living fossil as bonsai.
• Bonsai Fertiliser (CHF 19.95) – Specialist fertiliser for healthy growth and strong roots.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I keep a bonsai indoors?

Most bonsai species are outdoor trees and need the seasons – especially winter. Only a few tropical species work indoors (e.g. Ficus, Chinese Elm). Juniper, maple, pine and ginkgo must stay outside or they will die.

How often should I water my bonsai?

There is no fixed schedule. Do the finger test: push your finger 1–2 cm into the soil. Dry? Water until it runs from the drainage holes. Moist? Wait. In summer this could be 1–2 times daily, in winter every few days.

My bonsai is losing leaves – is it dead?

Not necessarily. Deciduous bonsai (maple, ginkgo, beech) drop all leaves in autumn – that's normal. Leaf loss in summer indicates stress (too much/little water, location change). Scratch a branch: if it's green underneath, the tree is alive.

How long does it take to grow a bonsai from seed?

Until a seedling looks like a "real" bonsai, expect 5–10 years. A bonsai with mature character takes 10–15 years. For a faster start, buy a 3–5-year-old nursery plant and begin shaping immediately.

What is stratification and do I need it?

Stratification is an artificial winter: seeds are stored moist and cold (2–5 °C, e.g. in the fridge) for 4–12 weeks to break dormancy. Without it, many species (maple, pine, ginkgo) simply won't germinate.

Which bonsai is best for beginners?

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum): hardy, forgiving, spectacular autumn colour. Or Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia): flexible regarding indoor/outdoor, fast-growing, small leaves.

How do I overwinter my bonsai in Switzerland?

Simplest method: place the pot in a styrofoam box (with lid, holes for air/water). Alternatively: bury in the garden to rim level. An unheated room (0–5 °C) also works. NEVER bring into the warm living room – outdoor bonsai need the cold.

What substrate do I need?

Standard: 1/3 Akadama + 1/3 Pumice + 1/3 Lava granules, all 2–4 mm grain size. No regular potting soil – it compacts and retains too much water. Akadama is available from bonsai specialists or online.

How often should I repot?

Every 2–3 years, ideally just before bud break in spring. Young trees every 1–2 years, older ones every 3–5 years. When repotting, shorten roots by maximum 1/3.

Do I need to fertilise my bonsai?

Yes, regularly during the growing season (April–September). The substrate contains virtually no nutrients. Best: organic bonsai fertiliser (Biogold, rapeseed cake) or liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks. Do not fertilise in winter.

Is bonsai cruel to the tree?

No. A well-maintained bonsai often lives longer than its wild counterparts because it's protected from storms, drought and pests. The techniques (pruning, wiring) are comparable to fruit-tree pruning in a garden. The oldest bonsai are over 1,000 years old.

How much does a good bonsai cost?

A beginner bonsai costs CHF 20–80. Mid-range (5–15 years, shaped) CHF 100–500. Masterpieces (30+ years) can cost CHF 1,000–100,000+. Growing from seed is cheapest (CHF 5–20 for seeds) but slowest.

Can I take a tree from the forest as a bonsai?

This is called Yamadori and is a recognised bonsai practice. In Switzerland, however, you need permission from the forest owner (usually the municipality). Digging up trees without authorisation is prohibited. Best to ask your local forester.

Why are the edges of my bonsai's leaves turning brown?

Most common causes: underwatering (leaf edges dry out), too much direct wind, sunburn (suddenly moved from shade to full sun), or too much fertiliser (salt damage). Diagnosis: finger test for moisture, check location.

What tools do I need to get started?

Three tools are enough to start: a bonsai scissors (concave cutter is nice-to-have but not essential), bonsai wire (aluminium, 1–3 mm) and a root rake for untangling when repotting. Everything else comes with experience.